Saturday, September 28, 2013

S's Kaleidoscope Symphony

 
This was a fun sampler quilt that I recently completed quilting. I loved the colors in it, and since it is a kaleidoscope quilt, every center is different. (The pattern is by Marilyn Foreman.)











 
 Some feather detail in the triangle insets.
One of the kaleidoscope blocks. I hope you can see the quilting detail in this block.

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Adding Borders

Adding Borders to Your Quilt:

Note: all measurements should be taken from the body of the quilt, away from the edges, near the top, center, and bottom.

1) Whenever possible, cut your borders lengthwise from the fabric instead of widthwise. This will prevent stretching distortion.

2) Determine the length of the quilt by taking a measurement in 3 places and taking the average (add the 3 measurements together and divide by 3.)

3) Cut two borders to the above average dimension. Find the center of the long side of the quilt and the center of each border - pin the border to the quilt at the center and the two ends. Continue pinning, easing in any fullness as necessary to make the quilt and border fit to exactly the same dimensions.

4) Pin, sew, and press.

5) Repeat with the opposite sides of the quilt.

A video you may want to watch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1CuzT9nMCw

Preparing a Quilt for Machine Quilting

Note: Proper preparation of your quilt top will result in a better finished quilt and can save you money. 

· Remove any selvage edges from your quilt and backing. Selvages are thicker than your fabric and will cause distortion in your quilt.

· Press quilt top well (from the back side of the quilt), making sure all seam are properly pressed.  Proper pressing during quilt construction will make the final pressing simple to do. (Quilt top must be clean, pressed, and threads clipped.)

· Backing seams should be pressed open.

· Batting and backing must be at least 6—8 inches wider and 6—8 inches longer than the quilt top. (This would be 3—4 inches larger than your quilt all the way around.)

· Check for any loose threads or open seams. Trim as many threads as possible from quilt top and back. (Note: dark threads can show through the quilt top in lighter areas. Holding your quilt top up to a light will help you to see these better so they can be trimmed.)
Stay stitch around top and/or backing where there are open seams to prevent the seams from becoming loose while quilting.

· DO NOT baste or pin the quilt layers together—this in not necessary for longarm machine quilting since each layer is loaded separately onto quilt rollers.

· DO NOT add any embellishments to the quilt until after it is quilted.

· If your quilt and/or quilt back is directional, make sure you indicate this by pinning a note to the top of the quilt and/or backing.

· Fold the quilt top carefully.

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

My Nolting Longarm


Louise
This is a my Nolting longarm system, which I have set up in what I call the "boiler room", since it is in the unfinished part of our basement with the water heater, furnace, etc. (It's the only place we could find big enough to put it!)

 

Civil War Tribute Quilt

K's Civil War Tribute Quilt 
K's quilt

This was one of my very first major quilting projects when I first began quilting for customers.

The border area, with feathers quilted in the triangle areas.

The center medallion area. Continuous curve in the star area, with dahlias and feathers quilted around.
Below are other block areas with more feather detail.